reprap:anet:a8:replace_hb_connector

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reprap:anet:a8:replace_hb_connector [2018/08/04 09:04] – [Option 2 - Solder] sjoukereprap:anet:a8:replace_hb_connector [2021/09/02 21:59] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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-====== Replacing the heat bed connector ====== +====== Replacing the hotbed connector ====== 
-- article under development, please add your knowlage and feel free to edit -+- article under development, please add your knowledge and feel free to edit -
 The corresponding discussion can be found [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|here]] The corresponding discussion can be found [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|here]]
  
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 {{ :reprap:anet:a8:18449265_10211516226635514_3997977419206089998_o.jpg?direct&400 |}} {{ :reprap:anet:a8:18449265_10211516226635514_3997977419206089998_o.jpg?direct&400 |}}
  
 +For problems on the other end of these wires look here https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet
 ==== Root cause ==== ==== Root cause ====
 There are several opinions about the root cause of this problem. Which is the main root cause or if it is a combination of them is still to be [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|discussed]]. Here some collected facts and arguments. There are several opinions about the root cause of this problem. Which is the main root cause or if it is a combination of them is still to be [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|discussed]]. Here some collected facts and arguments.
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 ==== Option 1 - Replace the connectors with the same type ==== ==== Option 1 - Replace the connectors with the same type ====
 +=== (and maybe set yourself up for another happening of "more of the same"?) ===
 +
 You will need:  You will need: 
   * 1x VHR-6N from JST   * 1x VHR-6N from JST
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 ==== Option 2 - Soldering the wires directly onto the hotbed heater ==== ==== Option 2 - Soldering the wires directly onto the hotbed heater ====
    Soldering cables directly onto the heater is a very reliable option if it is well done. But soldering thick wires onto the heater with     Soldering cables directly onto the heater is a very reliable option if it is well done. But soldering thick wires onto the heater with 
-   a large thermal capacity is quite dificult and requires some soldering experiance to avoid cold joints. As this connection has to +   a large thermal capacity is quite dificult and requires some soldering experience to avoid cold joints (stacking one blob of solder on  
 +   top of another without melting the solder properly, and therefor not creating a good electrical connection). As this connection has to 
    withstand a quite high current and a failure may lead to fire, this not recommended for a first time soldering experience.    withstand a quite high current and a failure may lead to fire, this not recommended for a first time soldering experience.
  
 Recommendations: Recommendations:
  
-  *  Use a solderingiron of good capacity (75/100 Watts). A smaller capacity iron will not melt the solder quick enough to get a good electrical connection (the more metal you need to heatup for a joint the more capacity you need, keep heating it with a low capacity iro  for longer time is not good practice)+  *  Use a solderingiron of good capacity (75/100 Watts). A smaller capacity iron will not melt the solder quick enough to get a good electrical connection (the more metal you need to heatup for a joint the more capacity you need, keep heating it with a low capacity iron  for longer time is not good practice)
  
   *  Do not OVERheat the solderjoint. As soon as the solder melts on both the wire and the pad keep the wire motionless till the solder has hardened (if it moves while hardening the joint will be no good eventhough the wire might be "stuck on")   *  Do not OVERheat the solderjoint. As soon as the solder melts on both the wire and the pad keep the wire motionless till the solder has hardened (if it moves while hardening the joint will be no good eventhough the wire might be "stuck on")
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   *  The solder on the heat bed is probably lead free solder. Most people use leaded solder at home. As mixing them is not recommended it is better to remove as much old solder as possible before soldering.   *  The solder on the heat bed is probably lead free solder. Most people use leaded solder at home. As mixing them is not recommended it is better to remove as much old solder as possible before soldering.
    
-  *  Foresee a strain relief so that the constant bending of the wire does not stress the solderjoint+  *  Maybe add a strain relief so that the constant bending of the wire does not stress the solderjoint.
    
-[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XAr6ac-lLU&feature=youtu.be|video of a heat bed soldering]]+[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XAr6ac-lLU&feature=youtu.be|video of a heat bed soldering]] it might be a slow going video but a lot can be learned for thoose who never practised soldering before.
  
 ==== Option 3 - spade connectors ==== ==== Option 3 - spade connectors ====
--feel free to write this chapter - +-feel free to write this chapter - always keep in mind : **if it works**, there is no wrong way of fixing your problem just easy and hard ways
 ==== Option 4 - european style screw connectors ==== ==== Option 4 - european style screw connectors ====
--feel free to write this chapter - +-feel free to write this chapter - always keep in mind : **if it works**, there is no wrong way of fixing your problem just easy and hard ways
 ===== Strain relief ===== ===== Strain relief =====
 A strain relief reduces the stress on the connector/solder. This is a good idea independently of which option was chosen or as a preventive measure before it fails. Here some options: A strain relief reduces the stress on the connector/solder. This is a good idea independently of which option was chosen or as a preventive measure before it fails. Here some options:
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   * 90° angle connector [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17916]]   * 90° angle connector [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17916]]
   * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1875869   * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1875869
 +  * https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-Resistors
  
    NOTE     NOTE 
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    To clarify: let the hotbedwire(s) run from the top of the printer to the bed. the motion of the bed will then never bend the wires more     To clarify: let the hotbedwire(s) run from the top of the printer to the bed. the motion of the bed will then never bend the wires more 
-   then maybe 15 degrees spread out over ca 30 cm. therefore hardly any bending at all in a specific place.+   then maybe 15 degrees spread out over ca 30 cm. therefore hardly any bending at all in a specific place and furthermore eliminating the  
 +   need for the other mentioned angled connector(s). (Why overengeneer things?) 
 +    
 +   
 ===== Remarks: ===== ===== Remarks: =====
   * By replacing the stock wires by thicker ones (AWG 14 or 16) you can increase the heater power ([[https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvements/understanding_my_heatbed|explanation]]). For the JST crimp connectors AWG 16 is the thickest wire compatible with the SVH-41T-P1-1 pins   * By replacing the stock wires by thicker ones (AWG 14 or 16) you can increase the heater power ([[https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvements/understanding_my_heatbed|explanation]]). For the JST crimp connectors AWG 16 is the thickest wire compatible with the SVH-41T-P1-1 pins
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  • Last modified: 2018/12/02 02:27
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