reprap:anet:a8:replace_hb_connector

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reprap:anet:a8:replace_hb_connector [2018/08/02 11:00] – [Strain relief] sjoukereprap:anet:a8:replace_hb_connector [2021/09/02 21:59] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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-====== Replacing the heat bed connector ====== +====== Replacing the hotbed connector ====== 
-- article under development, please add your knowlage and feel free to edit -+- article under development, please add your knowledge and feel free to edit -
 The corresponding discussion can be found [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|here]] The corresponding discussion can be found [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|here]]
  
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 {{ :reprap:anet:a8:18449265_10211516226635514_3997977419206089998_o.jpg?direct&400 |}} {{ :reprap:anet:a8:18449265_10211516226635514_3997977419206089998_o.jpg?direct&400 |}}
  
 +For problems on the other end of these wires look here https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet
 ==== Root cause ==== ==== Root cause ====
 There are several opinions about the root cause of this problem. Which is the main root cause or if it is a combination of them is still to be [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|discussed]]. Here some collected facts and arguments. There are several opinions about the root cause of this problem. Which is the main root cause or if it is a combination of them is still to be [[https://www.facebook.com/groups/OFFICIALAnet3DprinterSupportGroup/permalink/662020787319819/|discussed]]. Here some collected facts and arguments.
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 ==== Option 1 - Replace the connectors with the same type ==== ==== Option 1 - Replace the connectors with the same type ====
 +=== (and maybe set yourself up for another happening of "more of the same"?) ===
 +
 You will need:  You will need: 
   * 1x VHR-6N from JST   * 1x VHR-6N from JST
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 It is recomended to add strain relief. It is recomended to add strain relief.
  
-==== Option 2 - Solder ==== +==== Option 2 - Soldering the wires directly onto the hotbed heater ==== 
-Soldering cables directly onto the heat bed is a very reliable option if it is well done. But soldering thick wires onto a heatbed with a large thermal capacity is quite dificult and requires some soldering experince to avoid cold joints. As this connection has to withstand a quite high current and a failure may lead to fire, this not recomended for a first time soldering experience.+   Soldering cables directly onto the heater is a very reliable option if it is well done. But soldering thick wires onto the heater with  
 +   a large thermal capacity is quite dificult and requires some soldering experience to avoid cold joints (stacking one blob of solder on  
 +   top of another without melting the solder properly, and therefor not creating a good electrical connection). As this connection has to  
 +   withstand a quite high current and a failure may lead to fire, this not recommended for a first time soldering experience.
  
-Recomendations: +Recommendations: 
-  * Preheat the heatbed before soldering in a oven or by its own heater. + 
-  * The solder on the heat bed is probably lead free solder. Most peaople use leaded solder at home. As mixing them is not recomended it is better to remove as much old solder as possible before soldering. +  *  Use a solderingiron of good capacity (75/100 Watts). A smaller capacity iron will not melt the solder quick enough to get a good electrical connection (the more metal you need to heatup for a joint the more capacity you need, keep heating it with a low capacity iron  for longer time is not good practice) 
-  * Foresee a strain relief so that the constant bending of the wire does not stress the solder+ 
 +  *  Do not OVERheat the solderjoint. As soon as the solder melts on both the wire and the pad keep the wire motionless till the solder has hardened (if it moves while hardening the joint will be no good eventhough the wire might be "stuck on") 
 +  
 +  * Adding too much solder is just as bad as not enough for a good electrical connection. 
 +  
 +  *  The solder on the heat bed is probably lead free solder. Most people use leaded solder at home. As mixing them is not recommended it is better to remove as much old solder as possible before soldering. 
 +  
 +  *  Maybe add a strain relief so that the constant bending of the wire does not stress the solderjoint.
    
-[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XAr6ac-lLU&feature=youtu.be|video of a heat bed soldering]]+[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XAr6ac-lLU&feature=youtu.be|video of a heat bed soldering]] it might be a slow going video but a lot can be learned for thoose who never practised soldering before.
  
 ==== Option 3 - spade connectors ==== ==== Option 3 - spade connectors ====
--feel free to write this chapter - +-feel free to write this chapter - always keep in mind : **if it works**, there is no wrong way of fixing your problem just easy and hard ways
 ==== Option 4 - european style screw connectors ==== ==== Option 4 - european style screw connectors ====
--feel free to write this chapter - +-feel free to write this chapter - always keep in mind : **if it works**, there is no wrong way of fixing your problem just easy and hard ways
 ===== Strain relief ===== ===== Strain relief =====
 A strain relief reduces the stress on the connector/solder. This is a good idea independently of which option was chosen or as a preventive measure before it fails. Here some options: A strain relief reduces the stress on the connector/solder. This is a good idea independently of which option was chosen or as a preventive measure before it fails. Here some options:
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   * 90° angle connector [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17916]]   * 90° angle connector [[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17916]]
   * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1875869   * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1875869
 +  * https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-Resistors
  
    NOTE     NOTE 
-   a cablechain was mentioned above: this is something that i do not recommend. This will bend the complete wire 180 degrees over the  +   a cablechain was mentioned above: For cablemanagement it might look nice but there are some drawbacks on this.  
-   whole length of the wire with every motion.  +   It will bend the complete wire 180 degrees over the whole length of the wire with every motion.  
-   In my opinion a better way is to keep the bending as gradual as possible spread out over the complete length of  +   In my opinion a better way is to keep the bending as gradual as possible spread out over the complete length of the wire. 
-   the wire.+   
    To clarify: let the hotbedwire(s) run from the top of the printer to the bed. the motion of the bed will then never bend the wires more     To clarify: let the hotbedwire(s) run from the top of the printer to the bed. the motion of the bed will then never bend the wires more 
-   then maybe 15 degrees spread out over ca 30 cm. therefore hardly any bending at all in a specific place.+   then maybe 15 degrees spread out over ca 30 cm. therefore hardly any bending at all in a specific place and furthermore eliminating the  
 +   need for the other mentioned angled connector(s). (Why overengeneer things?) 
 +    
 +   
 ===== Remarks: ===== ===== Remarks: =====
   * By replacing the stock wires by thicker ones (AWG 14 or 16) you can increase the heater power ([[https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvements/understanding_my_heatbed|explanation]]). For the JST crimp connectors AWG 16 is the thickest wire compatible with the SVH-41T-P1-1 pins   * By replacing the stock wires by thicker ones (AWG 14 or 16) you can increase the heater power ([[https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvements/understanding_my_heatbed|explanation]]). For the JST crimp connectors AWG 16 is the thickest wire compatible with the SVH-41T-P1-1 pins
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  • Last modified: 2018/12/02 02:27
  • (external edit)